Beirut, the vibrant and resilient capital of Lebanon, is a city steeped in history, where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with a thriving modern culture. During my six-night stay in October 2023, I had the privilege of exploring the heart of the city and uncovering its stories of endurance, creativity, and the indomitable spirit of its people.

My journey began at The Grand Meshmosh Hotel, a charming oasis in the heart of Beirut. The hotel's warm hospitality and central location made it the perfect base for my exploration of this diverse and dynamic city. To arrive from the airport it is convenient to book taxi through the hotel, which typically cost around $10, ensuring both reliability and ease of travel.

One of the first places I visited was the site of the devastating explosion that rocked the city in August 2020.

After that I visited Shatila. The people of Shatila have created a rich and diverse tapestry of life within the camp's narrow alleys and bustling streets. During my time there, I had the privilege of conversing with individuals who graciously shared their stories, their dreams, and their hopes for the future. Their unwavering spirit in the face of adversity was truly inspiring. As I walked through Shatila, I couldn't help but reflect on the historical significance of the Palestinian diaspora and the ongoing struggle for rights and recognition. The people of Shatila exemplify the human capacity to find strength in solidarity, even in the most challenging circumstances, and their stories continue to be a vital part of Beirut's rich narrative.

Lebanon's culinary scene was a true highlight of my journey. The mezze dishes, such as creamy hummus, smoky baba ghanoush, and tangy tabbouleh, served with warm flatbreads, were an unforgettable culinary experience. The rich and diverse flavors of Lebanese cuisine showcased the country's culinary heritage, and every bite felt like a delicious journey.

My journey took an artistic turn when I met Exist, a talented graffiti artist. I met hip for my ongoing project “Spray Can Chronicles” Together, we spent a day documenting his creative process as he transformed blank walls into vibrant works of art. The streets of Beirut became our canvas, reflecting the city's spirit through color and expression. 

The Armenian Quarter, Venturing into the Armenian Quarter, I discovered a rich cultural tapestry. The Armenian community has left an indelible mark on Beirut's history and identity. Exploring its streets and vibrant community life was a truly enriching experience. A highlight of my visit was a trip to Souk el Tayeb, a bustling market filled with traditional Lebanese products. From locally grown produce to handcrafted goods, this market offered a glimpse into the rich culinary and artisanal traditions of the region. 

While in Beirut, I learned that it's advisable to exchange money locally rather than relying on foreign exchange services, specifically if you're traveling from abroad. Due to Lebanon's ongoing economic challenges and a collapsed banking system, the exchange rates can be significantly more favorable when exchanging currency in Beirut. During my visit, I witnessed the exchange rate for 1 Euro reach around 93,000 Lebanese lira, a stark contrast to the misleading rates I initially found online, which were often outdated or inaccurate, emphasizing the importance of being cautious when managing your finances in Lebanon.

A 4 day trip to Tripoli led me to its enchanting souks and the warm-hearted people who call this city home; it was a captivating four-day exploration of this historic Lebanese city. To embark on this journey, I chose to take a bus from the martyrs square in the heart of Beirut, named as Connexion, it costed 300,000 lebanese liras. The two-hour bus ride allowed me to appreciate the picturesque landscape of Lebanon, transitioning from the bustling streets of Beirut to the tranquil beauty of the northern coastal regions. 

Upon my arrival in Tripoli, I was immediately drawn to the city's vibrant souks, where the colors and sounds of local vendors and craftsmen filled the air. The warm and welcoming nature of the people of Tripoli made my stay truly remarkable. I had the privilege of immersing myself in their daily lives, documenting traditional soap makers, spice merchants, and artisans whose craft has been passed down through generations. The ancient traditions and rich cultural heritage of Tripoli were palpable, and I felt truly fortunate to capture the essence of this historical city through my lens. My four-day sojourn in Tripoli was an immersive experience that allowed me to connect with the local culture, creating lasting memories and forging a deeper appreciation for the unique traditions of this beautiful Lebanese city.

My time in Beirut left an indelible mark on my heart. The city's resilience, creative spirit, and the warmth of its people are a testament to the enduring human spirit. As Beirut rebuilds and continues to tell its story, I am reminded of the words of Khalil Gibran, a beloved Lebanese poet: "For what is it to die but to stand naked in the wind and to melt into the sun?"

Beirut, with its enduring soul, continues to inspire and captivate those fortunate enough to walk its streets and witness its stories of hope and resilience.